Dressed to Kill: Galabaya (traditional Egyptian Dress) party

Kom Ombu Temple

Temple of Edfu

Nile Cruise: Temples of Edfu and Kom Ombu

More sailing up the Nile, heading towards its source, brought us to the Temple of Edfu, half way between Luxor and Aswan. Edfu, the Temple of Horus, was largely buried by sand until it was found in 1860 and because it was buried several parts of the walls and columns contain their original coulours. The engraved illustrations here have taken on a new look and, influenced by the Greeks, show more human detail: the shape of both men and women - and navels! A quick wander, a purchase (and some unsuccessful bartering) and we were hustled back to the boat for another huge lunch and more sailing to Kom Ombu. A night visit to the Temple and for the first time, witness of the Egyptian calendar (the last day of the month was identified in hieroglyphics as a circle with a tail across the top - is this where the term 'tail-end' comes from?) and the mummified remains of three crocodiles and back to the boat from where we set sail for Aswan. Traditionally, they say, aboard the cruise ship, tonight was Galabaya night where everyone dresses up for a fun party of dance and music and drink. We were becoming rather partial to the Luxor Lager and it was SO easy to get: sign to Room 118 please!!!

At Hatshepsut's Temple: Last remaining Original Statue

Nile Cruise: Valleys of Kings and Queens

The tombs of the Pharoahs and their families are located just outside of Luxor on the barren fringes of the Sahara Desert. Sited under a pyramid like peak with the sun symbolism portrayed by its shape, these resting places are much more sohisticated and elaborate and buried much more deeply than I had imagined. In the Valley of the Kings we visited the tombs of three Pharoahs: Ramses III, IV and IX. The sarcophogi lie at the end of long elaborately decorated passage ways with small antechambers dotted along the inward route: in these were housed the necessities for the journey in the afterlife. Keeping a watchful eye over the thousands of tourists swarming through the tombs, high in outposts along the desert ridge line, the Tourist Police maintain their armed vigil against the possible threat of terrorism: an accepted part of tourism here given that in 1997 58 tourists and 3 policemen died in a terrorist attack in Luxor. From the Valley of the Kings to Deir el-Bahri, the monumental temple designed by Senmut for Queen Hatshepsut, to the Valley of the Artisans (home of the workers who constructed and engraved the tombs in the Kings and Queens Valleys and who were led blindfolded to work and back so they were unable to reveal the tombs locations) and on to the Valleyofthe Queens. The warmth of the desert sun was a welcome addition to our tours through these oppulent and majestic structures. Only two tombs were visited in the Valley of the Queens(Nefertari's Tomb is closed to general rifraf like us!):The Tomb of Queen Tyti and of the 12 year old Prince, who died too young to be buried in the Valley of the Kings, Amen-Hir-Khopshef. And back to the boat for a sail south to Edfu.

Columns in Karnak Temple Hypostyle Hall