BRATISLAVA

The journey from Krakow to Bratislava took up much of the day. We needed to make a re-adjustment to our train itinerary at the suggestion of the lady at the ticket office at Krakow station who suggested there would be a very tight fit between one train arriving and the net leaving. But with three train changes and the experience of first class which gave us a little more room, free water and juice – and a guaranteed seat with luggage alongside, we finally made it into a mild grey Bratislava afternoon. Another suggestion that we call a taxi [by information at Bratislava main train station] resulted in our picking up a taxi and being ripped off  - the charge of 18 Euros [and being unaware of approximate taxi costs] we even tipped the driver 2 Euros. [The real cost apparently, we found out later should have been around 7 Euros.] However, we weren’t to know, but the challenge was to get to the next train station for less. [As it turns out we managed to find appropriate public (bus) transport for a total cost for both of us for 3 Euros – we felt a bit better about the earlier rip off!

Botel Marina, Bratislava, Sovakia

Our accommodation was the Botel Marina – a floating hotel on the Danube about a 10 minute walk from the old town, Very handy and as is our usual practice, we headed into town for the recce or orientation. We managed to find a place to eat on the street listening to a drunken Slovakian singing away in the middle of the little square to the accompaniment of his guitar. Not too bad for a drunk.

Back to the Botel for our Danube ‘cruise’ – only to find there was no air-con in the cabin – there WAS air-con noise but nothing came of it so we asked for, and were given a little fan, which provided just enough cooling to last the night semi-comfortably.

The Castle - an 'upturned table' - overlooks old town Bratislava

The following morning we embarked on a ‘free’ walking tour of the old town with Dominika, a 22 year old medical student who spoke very good English and as well as guiding us through the town’s features gave us some very personal stories that helped to explain some of the Slovakian traditions [eg Easter and boys hitting girls; Christmas and the carp in the bath tub – check out on YouTube] and facts – girls are pretty; boys are silly – even 20 year olds look and behave like 15 year olds – she claimed. She was pretty …….and the boys, well, they still seemed to have a bit of growing up to do!

  

The statue of Cumil in the Main Square Pedestrian Zone; The Blue Church of St Elisabeth

That afternoon we spent wandering around again, some of the places we had been to in the morning tour and finally wended our way to the top of the Castle from where we got sweeping views across the old city, over the Danube and into the wind farms of Slovakia and Austria. A meandering path took us back down into the old town - but we were waylaid by a Chinese Restaurant which provided an excellent, cheap and tasty meal. Well, it was dinner time anyway. Even had space for a couple of 500ml beers!

 

Bratislava Central pedestrian zone and Slavin - memorial to Soviet Dead

And still had time to get back to Botel Marina to watch the sunset on the Danube.

Danube sunset from the stern of the Botel Marina, Bratislava

The next morning, being a Sunday, we walked from our Botel to St Martin’s church and morning Mass. That was followed by a walk through the walls of the battlements and to St Michaels Gate – the only remianing gate in the town. There were very few tourists around [ by the end of the day toursit numbers were well up again – the river cruise boats had arrived through the day, disgorging passengers into the town] and so we were able to move about freely, get some unencumbered photos – and sit down at a street side café for coffee and bagels. Quite the local thing to do! More walking to the Russian monument at Spavin [to remember Russia’s war dead – thousands of them buried in mass and single graves] overlooking the town but accessed through wide and narrow suburban streets and step ways. Coming back into the town we came across a brass band being set up in the main thoroughfare to play the music of a Slovakian composer who had died 10 years ago that day – September 13.

  

Church of St Stephen and the Old Town Hall in the Main Square

 It was relaxing to sit in chairs, in the sun at 3.00 in the afternoon listening to some spirited music before we headed back to the Botel  - just in time to see a cruise boat undergo a 360 as it moored behind us and discharged its human contents into the city for a quick look and a quick cheap spend. That boat pulled out about 5 hours later …. But that was our last night.

  

The Old Town Hall and SNP Bridge with UFO Restaurant

The next day we were to travel to Vienna. We made a trip to the bus station at about 8.15 to buy bus tickets. Walked back to the boat – picked up our luggage; signed out and walked back to the bus station straight [almost] into Bus 91 that took us to Ptrzalka Train Station [this was the 3 Euro trip!] and straight onto the [very comfortable] commuter train that took us to Vienna, only an hour away.

We arrived at Vienna Hauptbahnhof to see hundreds of refugees being gathered together having found their various ways from Hungary [and beyond]; there were some who arrived on our train and were being questioned by local police and volunteers – this refugee and asylum seeking movement is the largest influx of migrants since WWII – and it is creating quite a stir across Europe. Most countries seem to be making some effort to accommodate the thousands who stream across the borders every day – but there is still some quite serious anti-migrant sentiment coming out of Slovakia, Poland and Czech Republic. However, that’s another story..